A cup of clam chowder, a bloody Mary and the view of the Essex River at CK Pearl.
For many, taking a drive to Essex is a special culinary journey that’s focused on classic New England seafood, and some legendary dining spots certainly come to mind in this charming North Shore town.
Woodman’s is probably the best-known. The century-old seafood shack claims to be where fried clams were actually invented, and it’s a place where people from around the world go to for clams along with such items as lobster rolls, clam chowder, fried scallops, boiled lobster and so much more.
A short drive east is another iconic spot, J.T. Farnham's, which is also famous for its fried clams as well as its seafood boxes and boats that include haddock, calamari, shrimp, scallops and oysters.
These two places have helped put this quiet little riverside community on the map, but there’s more to Essex than Woodman’s and Farnham’s, including a local favorite called CK Pearl that doesn’t have the name recognition that these two eateries have, but is a great alternative if the other two are crowded (which is often) or if you want to go somewhere that’s just a touch more upscale and varied in its food options.
The “downtown” section of Essex is basically a dusty strip of road with water and marshland on each side, having the feel of a village in Downeast Maine or Atlantic Canada. And on both sides of Route 133 are a number of dining options in the center of town and also further out (such as Farnham’s).
Among them is CK Pearl, sitting across the street from Woodman’s and wedged tightly between the road and the winding Essex River. A parking lot for the restaurant can be found across the way just to the right of Woodman’s and while there is limited parking just out front as well, it’s best not to even try and just head into the lot to avoid any unnecessary stress.
Upon first glance at the structure, you might think that CK Pearl is another squat, shingled, one-story seafood shack, but once inside, you’ll realize that this is a true full-service restaurant with a bar by the entrance, a large dining area to the left of and adjacent to the bar and a mix of outdoor patio dining and screened dining to the right.
Eat New England
Wherever you sit, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views of the Essex River and the surrounding marshland that help make this town such a popular place with tourists.
While not a true seafood spot like Woodman’s and Farnham’s, CK Pearl offers some of the items you’ll find at those places, and in at least one case, you’ll find an interesting twist on a classic New England dish. The clam chowder here is indeed terrific, having the perfect balance of clams, bacon and potatoes in a creamy broth, but something special is added to the chowder here — fried clams, which are placed so that they are sticking out of the cup or bowl and make an already mouthwatering menu item even better.
Lobster rolls here can be ordered either chilled with mayo or warm with clarified butter, and the former is perhaps the pick here (as you head north from Boston toward Maine, you’ll find that chilled lobster rolls are much more popular).
The fried haddock sandwich is massive, with the fresh piece of fish extending well beyond the bread, and the fish and chips are another way to enjoy some tasty haddock.
For slightly more upscale seafood options, try the rare seared tuna tacos, which get a slight kick from chili oil, and if you happen to luck out and see it on the specials, the smoked bluefish pâté might just be the best dish offered here — the fatty, salty and briny flavors make one quickly forget that some call this a “trash fish” when in reality, there are very few seafood items that reach this level of greatness.
Those who aren’t into seafood have some very good options at CK Pearl, with two of the best choices being BBQ dishes. Indeed, the chopped brisket and pulled pork taste every bit as good as what you’ll find at many of the barbecue joints found here and there in eastern Massachusetts, and the juicy burgers get an added boost from the wonderful sesame buns that are absolutely loaded with seeds.
Also, this being the North Shore, you might expect a place like this to have steak tips, and the tips here have an excellent BBQ marinade and are tender with just the right amount of fat to give some extra flavor.
One thing you won’t get at the Essex seafood shacks are the creative cocktails that you’ll find at CK Pearl.
If you’re a fan of a good bloody mary, the version here is fabulous, getting a real kick from the horseradish, and you can also have it topped with an oyster. Manhattans and martinis are also very good choices, as is the slightly tart cranberry and apple sangria.
Beers include some options from local breweries such as Notch, Ipswich, Rockport and Bent Water, and plenty of American and European wines are offered including some high-end reds that top out in the $100-250 range, if you’re so inclined.
Oh, and it should be mentioned that the desserts at CK Pearl are worth saving room for. The skillet cookies and caramel apple bread pudding are a couple of standouts.
People might not talk about CK Pearl in the same breath as Woodman’s and Farnham’s, but that doesn’t mean that the place shouldn’t be on your radar. With a combination of excellent food/drink, a laid-back and comfy atmosphere and almost surreal views of the Essex landscape just outside the windows, this restaurant will surely give you the type of lasting memories that you might get at the more well-known seafood shacks in the area.
CK Pearl, 112 Main Street, Essex, MA, 01929. ckpearl.com.
