New Hampshire’s White Mountains are home to an interesting variety of resort communities, from the slow-paced, self-contained village of Waterville Valley to Jackson’s traditional New England charm to the bustling commercial stretches of North Conway and Lincoln.
When it comes to Lincoln and its neighbor just to the west, North Woodstock, they couldn’t be more different, making the twin towns a destination that has a little something for everyone.
Lincoln is basically a ski town for Loon Mountain, and its one main road (which turns into the Kancamagus Highway just east of town) is full of restaurants, bars, outdoor shops and a handful of strip malls and shopping centers. North Woodstock, on the other hand, has the feel of an outback town, with a compact and very walkable downtown area full of charming old wooden homes, a general store, interesting gift shops and a few options for dining and drinking.
And perhaps the anchor for North Woodstock’s town center is a renovated train station that is home to a restaurant, bar, brewery, function hall and inn — it’s a favorite among skiers, hikers, tourists and locals alike.
The Woodstock Station Inn & Brewery has the feel of a place that has been North Woodstock forever, though the building itself actually used to reside in Lincoln. It was a stop along a railroad line that was used for both lumber and tourism and dates all the way back to the 1800s. Part of the train station was moved to its current home in the 1980s and slowly but surely grew to the spacious, multi-use space of today.
Stepping inside, it becomes clear that the centerpoint of Woodstock Station is the main bar, which sits to the right of the brewery and gift shop by the main entrance. Its high ceiling, huge wooden beams, and knickknacks and memorabilia scattered throughout help make this one of the most interesting bar areas in the entire White Mountains.
While the main bar is a great place to grab a drink and a bite to eat, just across from the bar is another great space: the Porter Room, a comfortable area where families, larger groups and couples kick back and enjoy a meal with a bit more peace and quiet than the bar affords.
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Back by the brewery and the gift shop are some little nooks and crannies where you’ll find some extra seating, and there is also a huge fireplace with couches facing it, which is a great spot to be on a cold winter night. A large function hall can be found on the second floor above the main bar and brewery, and yet another taproom/bar is located up there as well.
Beyond the main bar and the Porter Room are several more spaces for dining and drinking, including a cozy British-style pub called the Brew Pub which is accessed via a narrow brick walkway. A tiny dining area called the Stock Room is also in this area, and this room has the type of Adirondack-style hanging lights that you might find in a ski lodge.
A back dining room is further along, with plenty more seating for when the place is busy, and during the warmer months, the Dam Bar (and its patio) is a popular spot, with its use of reclaimed wood and downed beaver trees making it a fascinating place to have drink or two while doing some people-watching along North Woodstock’s main street.
Oh, and there is indeed an inn here, with 40 homey rooms found among the several buildings scattered about the property.
The menu at Woodstock Station is nearly as big as the place itself. The offerings lean toward classic American fare, pub grub and comfort food.
One of the best items is the chili, whose claim to fame is being the winner of a local chili cookoff and which gets some of its flavor from the brewery’s Red Rack amber ale; the dish can be ordered in a freshly baked bread bowl or a crock. Another favorite is a plate of rather large onion rings, which have a thick, beer-battered coating and are addictive enough to ruin your appetite even before your meal comes out.
It can be tough to get beyond the sandwich list – there are so many top choices, including a popular chicken salad melt with Swiss cheese and tomatoes; a sleep-inducing steak bomb with cheese, mushrooms, peppers and onions; a hearty meatloaf sandwich with caramelized onions and gravy; a blackened mahi sandwich which gets a bit of a kick from ginger; a classic club sandwich with turkey, ham and bacon; a lean but tasty bison burger which can be ordered with such sides as fries, rings, mashed potatoes or house-made chips; and a pulled pork sandwich that’s overflowing with meat and is served on a grilled brioche roll.
If you make it past the apps and sandwiches at Woodstock Station, more options await, including a truly outstanding flatbread pizza which can be topped with pepperoni, pulled pork or a Mediterranean mix (spinach, tomato, mushroom, black olives, feta). The ribs and macaroni and cheese are two other good picks – the former is topped with a “pig's ear” barbecue sauce and the latter comes with short rib meat if you’d like. The teriyaki steak tips compete nicely with the ones served at some of the better Boston-area bars, while seafood fans might want to consider the sesame maple scallops or the panko-crusted fish and chips.
House-made desserts at Woodstock Station are pretty decadent. The tollhouse pie, sticky bun sundae and chocolate stout mousse are highlights.
The beers offered at Woodstock Station Inn & Brewery show that New Hampshire is no slouch when it comes to fermentation. They compete nicely with breweries in neighboring Vermont and Maine, which tend to get so much of the press.
A couple of favorites include the Pig's Ear Brown Ale and Double Pig's Ear Double Down Brown Ale – the double packs a real punch. The Red Rack Ale, from the award-willing chili, has some caramel notes much like Pig’s Ear does, and it gets some added sweetness from the malt used. The Autumn Ale Brew is particularly popular this time of year and is a good alternative to the countless pumpkin ales out there, focusing instead on cinnamon and apple flavors. Another good option as the weather continues to chill down is the Old Man Oatmeal Stout, as its smooth, silky texture and use of roasted malts makes for a perfect beer to drink while sitting by the roaring fire.
For those who want to try different options, the five-beer flights are the way to go, and you can also buy cans of beer to go on your way out.
North Woodstock is one of the most charming towns in the White Mountains, and visiting the Woodstock Station Inn & Brewery is a great way to get a feel for this beautiful part of New Hampshire. There are few places in the Whites that have the type of “destination” feel that this one has, especially after a great day of hitting the slopes or wandering through the woods, or simply getting off Interstate 93 to take a little break from being on the road.
Woodstock Station Inn & Brewery, 135 Main Street, North Woodstock, NH, 03262. woodstockinnbrewery.com