Let’s face it: Indoor shopping malls are slowly but surely becoming a thing of the past. Many are being replaced by outdoor mixed-use developments that often include housing and office space.
But the mall era isn’t officially dead just yet. You can still find a number of them locally, including one in New Hampshire that is about as close as you can get to downtown Boston and still be in that state. And while The Mall at Rockingham Park in Salem may be overshadowed by its bustling neighbor next door — Tuscan Village, a quintessential mixed-use development — this mall still does quite well, and it happens to be home to an outstanding dining spot called Ya Mas, and it’s not your typical mall restaurant.
Ya Mas first started out in Pelham back in the summer of 2020 as the pandemic was taking hold, and it stayed there for approximately three years, until moving about 10 miles east to its current home in Salem. While its original spot was relatively spacious, it could get very busy, which made this move particularly important, as the new space is much larger (approximately twice as big) and literally one minute off Interstate 93 — and a minute or two north of the Massachusetts line — makes it much easier to get to for those who live in the Greater Boston area. And, of course, this being a mall, parking is never an issue.
Its location within a mall tends to make Ya Mas a bit of a hidden gem, as, unlike the restaurants in the adjacent Tuscan Village that are out in the open for all to see, you might not even know this place even exists until you enter the mall’s upper-level hallway between JC Penney and Dick’s Sporting Goods and see it on the left as you first walk in.
The restaurant space is anything but mall-like. It has much of the same cheer as their old Pelham location did, and the decor is almost overwhelming to the senses, more like an indoor festival than a restaurant.
From the chandeliers to the mosaic-pattered floor to the tin ceiling to the gaudily decorated beams, Ya Mas is quite unlike any other dining spot you’ll see locally. You might even notice the “evil eyes” within the space (including on the menus), but don’t worry — the evil eye is said to actually protect people from evil.
If you’re used to going to ultra-casual old-school Greek and Greek-American restaurants, such as Greek Corner in Cambridge or Taso's Euro Café in Norwood, you might be thrown a bit by the menu at Ya Mas. It has many more options, while also being somewhat pricier. Sure, you will find excellent takes on roast lamb, souvlaki and pastitsio here, but the offerings go well beyond the classic, familiar dishes found at most Greek dining spots in the region.
The menu has an endless array of shareable plates, including warm and cold meze, bar bites, spreads and cheese and charcuterie plates, and many diners never even venture beyond those smaller plates. It is indeed pretty tough to do so, with such tremendous options as a garlicky yellow fava bean spread with toasted pita, marinated olives enhanced with a sweet and zesty mix of honey and citrus, savory zucchini fritters with feta cheese and a sublime block of sesame feta, which is so good that it would be perfectly fine to double (or even triple) the order and make it into a meal of sorts.
But Ya Mas’ full meals should definitely not be overlooked, and this part of the menu features both familiar and not-so-familiar options.
The moussaka is both fabulous and unique in its presentation, looking almost like a shepherd’s pie (which the restaurant also does serve, by the way) thanks to a thick layer of bechamel on top along with layers of beef, potato and eggplant, plus a serving of delicious green beans on the side.
The aforementioned roast lamb as well as the lamb chops should be considered as well – both are served with lemon potatoes and asparagus.
Lovers of comfort food may want to try the Greek macaroni and cheese, which comes with three different cheeses, including feta, which may sound odd, but it works very well.
Seafood fans can opt for several dishes, including a simple plate of fish and chips, pan-seared branzino (a type of sea bass that has a mild taste) and a baked seafood casserole with branzino, scallops and shrimp.
Choosing what to drink at Ya Mas will probably be difficult, because there are almost too many directions to go in. The list of martinis is impressive, as is the endless list of red, white and rose wines and champagne, but there are also Greek beers, classic cocktails and a variety of regional, national and European beers.
But if you like spirits, that may be the way to go, as you’ll find sections dedicated to whiskey, gin, vodka, rum, tequila and cognac, and a handful of interesting spirit flights are available. This being a Greek restaurant, you may want to focus on the cordials/amaro options such as tsipouro, which is technically a brandy but which is also similar to grappa, and honey raki, which is an aromatic brandy that is perfect for cold winter nights. (The ever-popular ouzo is also available, of course.)
Visiting a restaurant like Ya Mas is much more than just a dining experience; it gives the feel of a special occasion even if it isn’t overly formal or stuffy, and its fun atmosphere even includes belly dancers if you hit it at the right time.
The place is good for all types of diners, including couples, families, groups of friends or co-workers, and its being just over a half hour from downtown Boston (without traffic) is a big plus as well if you’re coming from the city.
Salem has quietly become a bit of a destination for dining, with endless restaurant options including the wonderful Tuscan Kitchen/Tuscan Market complex just across the street from Ya Mas, and Ya Mas itself certainly feels like the kind of place worth driving a little extra for.
Ya Mas Greek Taverna & Bar, 275 Rockingham Park Blvd (The Mall at Rockingham Park), Salem, NH, 03079. yamasnh.com
