Back in the day, Hilltop Steak House in Saugus was the place to be for many meat eaters who needed to satisfy their cravings, and when it closed down in 2013, it left a bit of a void for casual, family-friendly places for red meat that wouldn’t break the bank.
And while there are a number of restaurants in the Greater Boston area and elsewhere in New England that remain good options — though not with the unique atmosphere of the Hilltop — perhaps no other dining spot does a better job of carrying the torch than a sprawling restaurant and butchery just over an hour north of Boston called the Tuckaway Tavern and Butchery, especially considering that, like the old Hilltop on Route 1 (and its handful of other locations throughout the region), it also features a meat market that people are willing to travel long distances for in order to stock up.
Unlike the original Hilltop Steak House, which resided on one of the busiest roads in the Greater Boston area (and whose giant cactus sign out front was a landmark unto itself), the Tuckaway Tavern is off the beaten path in the little town of Raymond, just off Route 101 about 15 miles east of Manchester and 20 miles west of the New Hampshire seacoast.
The restaurant is popular with locals, of course, and also outdoors lovers who stop by the place after a hike, bike or swim at the beautiful Pawtuckaway State Park a short distance to the north, while vacationers who summer at the many lakes and ponds in the region also frequent the place.
Those in the know in the Boston area and elsewhere often visit on the way back from the White Mountains or even drive up from the city solely to go to the restaurant and butcher shop, tossing coolers in the back to bring food home.
The Tuckaway Tavern can best be described as rustic, feeling a bit like a barn or a carriage house inside, and its multiple spaces aren’t all that different from that of the Hilltop, though on a smaller scale. Upon entering the place, you’ll find a large waiting area and host stand. Just beyond that is a small, wedge-like dining area with a few tables as well as an entrance to the meat market (which also has its own entrance/exit).
Continuing through the space, you’ll come to the main room, which has a distinct barnlike feel and includes a wraparound bar and a mix of booths, hi-tops, low-tops and counter seats. More seating can be found off to the side, and in the back is an airy room that feels like a seasonal porch and looks out at the woods beyond the restaurant.
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The meat market itself is huge, with cases and displays that include steak tips, pork chops, sausage, chicken, seafood, burgers, salads, steaks, to-go meals, desserts and so much more. Another section of the market features a wide variety of beers, including a number of local options from New Hampshire breweries and plenty of choices from other New England states as well, with a nod toward Maine, which isn’t all that far away.
PHOTOS: Meat and more at Tuckaway Tavern in Raymond, NH
As you might expect, meat lovers will have a hard time deciding what to order at The Tuckaway Tavern, starting with excellent appetizers, some of which can be considered full meals, especially if you order a couple of them. A few highlights among the starters include rooster balls, which are shredded chicken mixed with cheese and buffalo sauce, rolled into balls and deep fried; a hearty roadhouse chili that is made with ground bison, pork belly and kielbasa along with roasted veggies and two different cheeses; and a savory poutine with handcut fries, cheese curds and gravy, and options for toppings that include braised beef, pulled pork or bacon.
It may not be best to load up too much on apps here, as the main courses tend to be rather large, enough so that you may take some home even if you don’t order anything else. The freshly ground black angus burgers are front and center here, receiving a number of awards through the years, and yes, they are certainly deserving of all the accolades.
Some of the better options among the burgers include the absolutely sinful Pigpile which consists of four layers of bacon, three layers of cheese and onion jam; the Two Pigs, One Cow, which is topped with BBQ pork, bacon and cheddar cheese; The Whole Tuckin’ Farm, which includes fried chicken, bacon, cheddar cheese and “tuck sauce” which is made with mayo, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce and various seasonings.
One particularly good option which isn’t always offered is the poutine burger, which allows you to enjoy an app and an entree all in one fell swoop.
As good as the burgers are at The Tuckaway Tavern, there are a number of other items on the menu well worth considering, including their extraordinary steak tips. Some of the best tips in New England can be found in the Boston area at places like Newbridge Cafe in Chelsea and Floramo’s in Malden, but the ones at the Tuckaway are right up there as well, in part because the quality of the meat is so good but also because of the sublime marinade, which has a perfect balance of oil, vinegar and seasonings.
The thick-cut pork chops and various steaks should be considered if you have a big appetite. If your appetite is really big (or you’re looking to share), the butcher’s block is a terrific choice, with marinated chicken, steak tips and ribs.
A few old-school dishes include a wonderful macaroni and cheese that can also be purchased as a frozen to-go tray in the shop, a comforting meatloaf plate with sour cream gravy and fish and chips with a house-made tartar sauce.
If you somehow have room for dessert, you can choose from such decadent options as a s'more sundae or a pudding cake.
New England is full of destination restaurants where it’s perfectly fine to drive a long distance just for a meal, and the Tuckaway Tavern is certainly one of them. Its meat market gives people an additional excuse for hopping in the car and setting the GPS, as, depending on how much you stock up on, a trip to this unique spot could end up giving you days if not weeks of outstanding meals to cook at home.
It may not have the cachet of the Hilltop, but the Tuckaway is a bit of an institution in its own right, and one whose food may indeed make you forget about the legendary long-closed steakhouse on Route 1.
Tuckaway Tavern and Butchery, 58 Route 27, Raymond, NH, 03077. thetuckaway.com
