Review: Russell House Tavern

Unpretentious, cool but not trendy, Chef Michael Scelfo’s Russell House Tavern is without a doubt, as good as a gastro-pub gets

(TV Diner) - In the heart of Harvard Square lies the Russell House Tavern, a trendy, yet unpretentious gastro pub with multi-level seating, an atmosphere rich with earthy wood tones, contemporary lighting and vintage photos of Cambridge back in the day.

Cozy al fresco corners, high-top tables in the upstairs bar and a sophisticated main dining room at basement level provide solid seating choices. A bold, inventive menu featuring seasonally-inspired artisanal fare is the claim to fame at this posh pub, but how much is brag and how much is fact? Let’s find out.

We started with a single Jonah crab cake. Small in size, but immense in flavor, this petite gem served with beet and apple salad was sweet, creamy and simply delicious.
We could have devoured a thin-crust pizza with house-made sausage and ricotta – it was that good – but we practiced restraint and savored just a couple slices of the excellent pie.

On to the steak frites, a ten ounce flatiron steak with garlic aioli and a red wine demi.

The tender cut of beef was everything we hoped for, but the fries registered low on the crisp meter.

Intense and abundant best describes the pork trio. An herb-grilled pork loin, confit belly and smoked shoulder atop velvety grits and an outstanding vinegar sauce was rich and succulent to the max.

A perfect portion of chocolate chunk bread pudding with ice cream was glorious, but the star sweet was a luscious peach upside down cake with burnt sugar ice cream and pecan brittle. More, please!!

The wait staff at Russell House Tavern is friendly and attentive. Kudos to our server

Connor for a memorable evening. But we should mention the fairly high noise level, particularly in the upstairs bar.

Prices are moderate at Russell House Tavern with salads and appetizers $6 to $13; small plates $7 to $13; pizzas averaging $13; entrees $12 to $35; and desserts $8.

For its well-executed menu, steadfast service and stylish atmosphere, Russell House Tavern earns a glittering Gold Plate.

Open daily, Russell House Tavern is located at 14 JFK Street in Cambridge. Call 617-500-3055 or check out the website at www.russellhousecambridge.com.

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